Papa-usa

Hello! I’m “Papa-usa,” a food-loving camper who believes that finding a great local restaurant is the most important part of any trip.

Today, I want to introduce a hidden gem near Oguni Town (close to Kurokawa Onsen) that I highly recommend.
It is a restaurant called “Shikinosato Hira” where you can enjoy authentic “Inaka-ryori” (rural cuisine) in a 400-year-old traditional house.

While it has great reviews online, I have an even better proof of quality:
My grandfather visits here once every two weeks! (Laughs)
Ever since my father took my grandparents there a few years ago, they have been completely captivated by the food.

Restaurant Sign and Parking Path to the restaurant
▲ Enter the parking lot from the road, and walk a little to find this beautiful old house.

1. The “Kominka” Experience: Comfort in a 400-Year-Old House

🇯🇵 Cultural Note: What is “Kominka”?

“Kominka” (古民家) refers to traditional Japanese folk houses built using old architectural methods. This restaurant is 400 years old!
Dining here is like time-traveling. You can see the heavy wooden beams and traditional “Irori” (sunken hearth).

You might worry that an old house is “hot and buggy in summer” or “drafty and cold in winter,” right?
Don’t worry! This place is fully renovated for comfort.

🎐 Comfortable All Year Round

It has air conditioning for a cool summer and heaters for a cozy winter.
You can enjoy the nostalgic atmosphere comfortably, which is great for families with small children.

🍂 “Ichigo-Ichie” (Once in a lifetime chance) with Food

The menu changes based on seasonal ingredients.
Wild vegetables in spring, summer veggies in summer, root vegetables in autumn… You will encounter new flavors every time you visit.

View from the veranda ▲ View from the veranda (Engawa). Time flows slowly here.

2. Menu & Prices | Recommendation: “Takana-meshi”

First, let’s look at the menu. The prices are very reasonable for the volume of food you get.

Drink Menu Meal Menu
Takana-meshi Set ▲ Takana-meshi Set. Huge volume! My 4 and 7-year-old kids happily shared one set.
🇯🇵 What is “Takana-meshi”?

“Takana” (High Greens) is a type of leafy mustard vegetable famous in the Aso region. It is pickled and has a unique savory and slightly spicy flavor.
“Takana-meshi” is steamed rice mixed with these chopped pickles and sesame seeds. It’s not fried rice, so it’s not oily and is very healthy!

🍚 Gentle Taste for Kids

Since it’s mixed rice (not fried), it has a gentle flavor that even small children love.
The portion is very large, so sharing one set between two small children was just right for my family.

3. The Ultimate Feast: “Inaka-ryori Set”

If you want the full experience, go for the “Inaka-ryori Set” (2,200 JPY).
You will be overwhelmed by the number of small dishes (“Kobachi”)!

🇯🇵 What is “Inaka-ryori”?

“Inaka” means countryside, and “Ryori” means cuisine. It refers to traditional, rustic, home-style cooking using local, seasonal ingredients.
It’s different from fancy “Sushi” or “Kaiseki.” It’s the heartwarming taste of a Japanese grandmother’s cooking. It emphasizes the natural flavor of vegetables.

Inaka-ryori Set (First Tray) ▲ This is just the first tray. It looks like enough, but wait… there’s more!

While you are eating, freshly fried Tempura and the main dish are brought to your table.

Tempura and Main Dish ▲ Freshly fried seasonal Tempura and the main dish arrive later. So luxurious!
  • Wild Vegetable Tempura: Picked by the owner in the mountains that very morning!
  • Chicken Dish: Uses fresh local chicken prepared that morning.

The freshness is on another level.

⚠️ Warning from Papa-usa ⚠️
Rice refills are free and delicious, but the amount of side dishes is insane!
I strongly recommend wearing “pants with a loose belt” when you visit! (Laughs)

🥡 Can’t finish it? The Owner’s Kindness

🇯🇵 Cultural Note: Taking leftovers home

In Japan, taking leftovers home is generally NOT allowed at most restaurants due to strict hygiene rules. It is not a common custom here.

However, the owner of “Hira” is exceptionally kind and hates to see good food go to waste. Providing packs is his special act of kindness, not a service included in the price.

If you are too full and cannot finish your meal, please politely call the staff:
“Sumimasen” (Excuse me / I’m sorry).

If they give you a pack, please don’t forget to say with a smile:
“Arigato gozaimasu” (Thank you very much)!

⛔ IMPORTANT MANNERS ⛔
  • Do not bring your own containers. using your own tupperware is considered rude.
  • Do not pack food without eating it first. The chef cooks it for you to enjoy fresh and hot at the restaurant. Packing everything immediately like a takeout shop is disrespectful to the chef.
  • Do not touch the decorations. The restaurant displays many historic antiques and ornaments. Please enjoy them with your eyes only and do not touch them without permission.

Please enjoy the food at the restaurant as much as possible!

4. Papa-usa’s Drive Course Guide 🚗

After a full stomach, let’s enjoy sightseeing!
Here is my standard driving route from Yamaga towards Aso/Kuju.

📍 My Standard Route

Michi-no-Eki Kamitsue (Roadside Station)
Shikinosato Hira (Lunch here!)
Senomoto Rest House (Great view of Aso)
To Aso area or Kuju area

🗺️ Nearby Spots to Visit

🌳 Takenokuma Giant Cedar

Very close to the restaurant! A powerful giant tree.

🛸 Michi-no-Eki Oguni (Yu Station)

A roadside station shaped like a UFO. Great for souvenirs.

♨️ Kurokawa Onsen

One of Japan’s most famous hot spring towns. Great for a day trip bath.

💧 Nabegataki Falls (Reservation Required)

A waterfall you can walk behind. Very beautiful, but you need to book online in advance!

♨️ Looking for a place to stay?

After a full meal at Hira, staying nearby at Kurokawa Onsen or Oguni area is the best plan.

黒川温泉・小国エリア
心ほどける極上の宿&キャンプ Relaxing Stays & Camping in Kurokawa Onsen Area

「街全体が一つの宿」
これは黒川温泉が大切にしているコンセプトです。道を「廊下」、木々を「庭」、そしてそれぞれの旅館を「客室」に見立て、街全体でお客様をおもてなしします。

The concept here is "The entire town is one inn." The streets are corridors, and the inns are guest rooms. 黒川温泉の湯あかり ▲冬の風物詩「湯あかり」。竹ひごの柔らかな光が川面を照らします。
Winter tradition "Yu-akari" (Bamboo Lantern Illumination).

浴衣に着替えてカランコロンと下駄を鳴らし、「入湯手形」を首から下げて露天風呂を巡る…。そんな、どこか懐かしくて温かい非日常がここにはあります。

Wear a Yukata, put on Geta sandals, and enjoy "Onsen Hopping" with a wooden pass called "Nyuto Tegata".

黒川温泉で「非日常」に泊まる Stay in the Extraordinary at Kurokawa Onsen

黒川温泉旅館 南城苑 Nanjoen

\翌朝の肌に驚く?名物「顔湯」体験/
温泉街のど真ん中に位置し、湯めぐりの拠点に最高のお宿。ここの自慢はなんといっても「顔湯」。温泉の蒸気を顔にあてる美容体験は、女性客に大人気です。
全11室のこじんまりとした空間で、静かにゆっくり流れる時間を楽しみたい方に。
Famous for its "Face Bath" steam beauty treatment. Located in the center of town, it's the perfect base for onsen hopping.
楽天トラベルでプランを見るCheck availability on Rakuten Travel 公式サイトはこちら / Official Site

旅館 やまの湯 Ryokan Yamano Yu

\パチパチと燃える炭火と田舎料理/
「あぁ、日本に生まれてよかった」と思わせてくれるお宿。囲炉裏(いろり)を囲んで食べる夕食は雰囲気抜群。炭火で焼くお肉や川魚の香ばしい匂いが食欲をそそります。
貸切風呂も充実しているので、周りを気にせず家族水入らずで温泉を堪能したい方にもおすすめです。
Enjoy a traditional Japanese dinner around an "Irori" (hearth). The charcoal-grilled meat and river fish are exquisite.
楽天トラベルでプランを見るCheck availability on Rakuten Travel 公式サイトはこちら / Official Site

黒川温泉 黒川荘 Kurokawa So

\息をのむ美しさ。屏風岩と苔の庭/
黒川温泉の下手に位置する、茅葺き屋根の老舗旅館。一歩足を踏み入れると、そこには手入れされた見事な苔の庭と、迫力ある屏風岩の絶景が広がります。
乳緑色の露天風呂に浸かりながら自然と一体になる感覚は、まさに至福。記念日や自分へのご褒美に選びたい、特別な一軒です。
A high-class inn with a thatched roof. The beautiful moss garden and the view of the huge "Byobu Rock" are breathtaking.
楽天トラベルでプランを見るCheck availability on Rakuten Travel

大自然とあそぶ!人気キャンプ場 Play in Nature! Popular Camping Sites

小国・阿蘇エリアはキャンパーの聖地。予約困難な人気スポットですが、行く価値は間違いなくあります。

茶屋の原キャンプ場 Chayanohara Camp Site

\あの「ヒロシ」さんも愛する野営地/
芸人ヒロシさんの著書『ヒロシのひとりキャンプのおすすめ』にも掲載された、阿蘇くじゅう国立公園内のキャンプ場。
区画がきっちりしすぎていない、自然の地形を活かしたサイトが魅力。木漏れ日の中で、本格的な「野営」の雰囲気を味わいたい玄人キャンパーにおすすめです。
A wild campsite located in a national park. Loved by solo campers for its natural terrain and trees.

山鳥の森オートキャンプ場 Yamadori no Mori Auto Camp

\キャンパーの理想郷!温泉入り放題/
「キャンプのお風呂問題」を解決してくれる最高の場所。敷地内には源泉かけ流しの温泉があり、宿泊者は何度でも入浴可能です。
施設は清潔に管理されており、女性やファミリーでも安心して過ごせます。焚き火の後の温泉は、言葉にできない心地よさです。
A paradise for campers! There is a natural hot spring on the premises, and guests can bathe as many times as they like.
公式サイトを見るVisit Official Site

阿蘇の味を自宅で再現!
おすすめ高菜&車旅グッズ Taste of Aso at Home! Recommended Takana & Car Travel Goods

田舎料理好き・キャンパー必見。小国・阿蘇エリアの美味しいものまとめ For rustic cuisine lovers and campers. A collection of delicious foods from the Oguni and Aso areas.

お家で絶品「高菜めし」を作るなら Making Exquisite "Takana Rice" at Home

「比良さんの味には敵いませんが、阿蘇の高菜漬けがあれば、お家でも絶品高菜めしが作れますよ!」

You can make delicious Takana rice at home with Aso Takana pickles!

誠食品 阿蘇高菜 100g×2袋 Makoto Foods Aso Takana (Pickled Mustard Greens)

高菜ご飯を作るなら、やっぱり本場の阿蘇高菜。シャキシャキとした食感と風味が、炊きたてご飯と最高に合います。
Perfect for Takana rice. The crunchy texture goes great with freshly cooked rice.

がっつり高菜チャーハンにするなら For Hearty Takana Fried Rice

炒め物に使うなら、油との相性が抜群の辛子高菜がおすすめです。

"Karashi Takana" (Spicy Pickled Mustard Greens) goes great with oil.

おにまる 辛子高菜 (300g) Onimaru Karashi Takana (Spicy)

ピリッとした辛さが食欲をそそります。ラーメンのトッピングにも最高ですが、チャーハンにすると化けます。
Spicy and appetizing. Great for ramen toppings, but even better when made into fried rice.
🍳 絶品!高菜チャーハンの作り方
How to make Delicious Takana Fried Rice
【材料:2人前】 Ingredients (Serves 2)
  • ごはん Rice茶碗2杯(300g)
  • 辛子高菜 Karashi Takanaお好みでたっぷり
  • Egg1個
  • 長ねぎ Green onion適量
  • サラダ油 Salad oil少々
  • 醤油(★) Soy sauce小さじ1
  • ごま油(★) Sesame oil小さじ1
【作り方】 Instructions
  1. 長ねぎは粗目のみじん切りに。卵はよく溶きほぐしておきます。 Chop green onions. Beat the egg.
  2. フライパンにサラダ油を熱し、溶き卵を入れたら固まる前に手早くごはんを入れて、卵がからまるように混ぜ合わせます。 Heat oil in a pan, add egg, then add rice quickly before the egg sets. Mix well.
  3. 全体的にパラっとしてきたら長ネギ、辛子高菜を入れ、さらに炒め合わせます。 Add green onions and Takana, then stir-fry.
  4. 香り付けにしょうゆ、ごま油をまわし入れ、サッと混ぜ合わせて仕上げます。 Add soy sauce and sesame oil for flavor, mix quickly, and serve.

いろんな高菜を楽しみたい方へ For Those Who Want to Try Various Flavors

九州産高菜 5種選べる食べ比べセット Kyushu Takana 5 Variety Set

「明太子高菜」や「ごま高菜」など、いろんな味を試してみたい時はこちら。お酒のアテにも最高です。
Try flavors like "Mentaiko Takana" or "Sesame Takana". Great snack for drinks.

九州の味の決め手「甘いお醤油」 The Deciding Factor of Kyushu Taste: "Sweet Soy Sauce"

ニビシ醤油 特級うまくち醤油 1000ml×2 Nibishi Sweet Soy Sauce

この醤油に砂糖を混ぜた「砂糖醤油」でおもちを食べるのが我が家では通。醤油のくせにぺろぺろしちゃううまさ。TKG(卵かけご飯)やお刺身、お寿司にももってこいです!
In Kyushu, soy sauce is sweet. It's delicious to lick on its own. Perfect for Sashimi, Sushi, and TKG (Raw Egg on Rice)!

冷蔵のお土産も安心!車旅の必需品 Essential for Car Trips! Keep Souvenirs Cool

LOGOS デザインクーラー15 (ブルーストライプ) LOGOS Design Cooler 15

10mm厚の断熱材で保冷力抜群!15Lサイズなら、お土産の漬物瓶や道の駅で買った食材もしっかり入ります。使わない時は畳んでコンパクトに収納できるので、車に常備しておくのにぴったりです。
Excellent insulation. Folds compactly when not in use. Perfect for keeping refrigerated souvenirs from roadside stations.

5. Conclusion

400 years of history, seasonal flavors, and the warm personality of the owner.
“Shikinosato Hira” is a place that fills not just your stomach, but your heart as well.

If you want to experience real Japanese rural life, please visit on your next drive!
The owner loves to chat, so you might enjoy a fun conversation too.

Open Google Maps for “Shikinosato Hira” 📍